A 5-Story Ode to Coffee
I’ve purposely waited weeks after the grand opening to go check out the new Starbucks Reserve Roastery within walking distance of my home in downtown Chicago. I managed to find an early, snowy morning during the mid-week when the 5-story experience (the world’s largest Starbucks) was open and quiet. The good news is I avoided the 1000+ person line that had been out front during the opening days.
Upon entry, I was greeted by a cheery, hatted woman offering both a sincere smile and a large printed map of the place. A map I thought. I think this IS the Disneyland of coffee, just as the media had reported. I quickly tucked the map in my puffy coat pocket and proceeded around the bend to the swirling escalator. I mean what’s to map if there’s a massive curving escalator just ahead beckoning the call of all coffee lovers like me. Up I went.
I decided to do a full run-through of the place to get a sense of the offerings before ordering any coffee. To be honest, I contemplated ordering a small coffee on the ground level to keep me company while browsing the other levels. I decided against that plan as a way to give my undivided attention to poking around the five stories of coffee wonderment.
Here’s a basic rundown of each level:
Reserve Coffee Bar: ground-level floor covering the basics for those who want to order “the usual” while buzzing quickly in and out on the way to work or shopping
Princi Bakery & Cafe: an open-concept bakery kitchen is the focal point of this aromatic floor
Experiential Coffee Bar: the “experiential” floor for sure…as the map-brochure says “for those looking to deepen their coffee knowledge” (sign me up!)
Arriviamo Cocktail Bar: not my thing really, as I generally don’t drink alcohol, though I couldn’t help but notice the number of people cocktail-ing it up at 8:30 in the morning including workers from the nearby hospital dressed in blue scrubs
Roof Terrace: the outdoor rooftop level will be warm, sunny and perfect once it opens next summer
What struck me most about each floor beyond the welcoming staff and mood lighting was the sheer volume of open space. You see, my office before starting Foodscape Group, was steps away from this very building. I used to look from my 13th-floor office across the street and see into what is now the Roastery back when it was Crate & Barrel, a furniture store. It was huge back then when it was filled with couches and end tables, and it’s huge now that it is filled with all things coffee. Part of me wonders if perhaps they need a few more seating options with all that space. I can imagine a crowded day - standing shoulder to shoulder and nowhere to sit. Today I will have my pick of seats.
I walked up to the counter to order. I was met by a cheery, hatted man offering both a warm smile and lots of information about my ordering options. Unlike the typical Starbucks store, this ordering situation was different. First off, the menu was a small, little chalkboard on a stand to my immediate left by the register. There are no giant menu boards cluttering up my view across the baristascape. Second, unlike my typical Starbucks experience right here in Chicago, there is oatmilk on this menu. I’m overjoyed. I decide to go for what I usually order at Starbucks - tall flat white - and now with oatmilk! The hatted man rings me up and announces that it will be $7.81. Come again? Nearly 8 dollars for the “tall” - which btw is essentially the small in Starbucks parlance. That is by far the most I’ve paid for a flat white anywhere, including on trips to Australia and New Zealand where flat whites reign supreme. Apparently, I had a quizzical look on my face because he quickly volunteered there’s an “upcharge” for the coffee at this Starbucks versus the one a block away because they roast the beans on-site here at the Roastery. Plus, I was getting the oat milk - upcharge number two. He assured me it would be worth it.
I head to the other side of the counter and watch all the baristas scurrying about. This is when it dawned on me that every worker in this entire place is wearing a hat! Not sure what’s up with that exactly, except I have to say I rather liked the wide array of head coverings, ranging from knit caps to something akin to the Bolivian bowler. It made all the expected uniformity of the Starbucks workers less uniform, less predictable and more comfortably casual.
My flat white arrived hot and ready to sip. I find my seat, carefully situated at the top of the curving escalator on Floor 2. I won’t expound upon the coffee tasting notes except to say it was in fact the best coffee I’ve ever had at a Starbucks. Not the best coffee I’ve ever had, but certainly the best at Starbucks, by far. I was, in theory at least, getting my 8 dollars worth. Perhaps we should think of this as a special occasion coffee I tell myself quietly.
As I’m sipping my flat white, I overhear several conversations of people standing right at the top of the curving escalator, all asking the same singular question. How do I get out? No, it isn’t that they were trying to escape from Disney, so much as they literally couldn’t figure a way out of the building. It’s true. The design is all about dramatic entry and upward movement, not about exiting apparently. It turns out getting from Floor 2 to Floor 1 requires the use of what I think you simply would have to call the backstairs. You’ll find a small set of non-descript stairs in the side/back corner of things.
With this kind of ode to coffee in your ‘hood, it’s safe to say I could visit daily. The truth is I won’t be doing that because there are other options closer and cheaper to my home. Having said that, if and when you find yourself in Chi-town, I recommend a visit to Starbucks Reserve Roastery. Go on an off day at an off time and enjoy the coffee, the aromas and the people-watching. And because you’ve taken the time to read about my experience, you won’t even end up stuck in the building. Just remember - exit via the backstairs.
All photos were taken by @rachelcheatham.phd, and edited by @Nisahnet